Rowan and Rowan : Renaissance necklace

Renaissance collar necklace

A rare Renaissance gold collar necklace, circa 1600 – 1650. During the Renaissance lavish gold jewels featuring colourful enamels and colourful gems complemented the opulent red, green and gold brocaded fabrics in vogue at the time. The craftmenship and skill of the goldsmith and enameller was never subordinate to the gems employed. Gems were cut simply and formed part of the whole rather than being the main feature. This necklace consists of different stylistic and sculptural-like elements. Rectangular panels are enamelled in black and white and set with rubies in simple raised box bezel settings. Floral elements are enamelled in black and set with natural pearls. Square panels are enamelled in blue and black and set with rubies in simple raised box bezel settings. In the 19th century one square panel was also made into a clasp. The chain is 15 inches long and the panels measure 3/4 of an inch by 1/2 an inch and 1/2 an inch by 1/2 an inch respectively. It is a very fine quality and weighty piece, with most of the original enamel intact. For similar Renaissance collar necklaces comprised of different elements see cover image and catalogue entry 30 in Kugel’s Joyaux Renaissance and Renaissance Jewelry in the Alsdorf Collection. It is so rare for such a piece to come onto the market these days.

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